Friday 13th December 2002
Six brothers from Winchester and two from Portsmouth, with their wives, set off from Winchester by coach, in the dark, bound for Stansted airport and a Ryanair flight to Graz. Our take off was delayed due to the foggy conditions but we were soon aboard a new Boeing 737 800 series (with just 28 hours flying time logged) and the flight, of under two hours, was uneventful.

We arrived in Graz on a grey, cold day with snow on the ground. We transferred by taxis the short distance to our hotel, the 4 star Hotel Weitzer beside the River Mur, close by the old city center. The hotel was warm and comfortable and everything we expected it to be. Once checked in we were soon out and about exploring the old city center.

Across the river from our hotel were the lively Advent markets with their rows of brightly lit stalls selling Christmas decorations and gifts - the busiest selling hot punsch and gluhwien! The smell filled the air and drew us in like a magnet. Wishing to do everything possible to boost the local economy we paid our €1.50 to rent a mug and joined the locals enjoying their traditional advent pursuit. We later returned to our hotel for tea and a short rest before dinner. Some dined at the hotel whilst others sought restaurants nearby.

After an early start and a tiring day we were all pleased to have a relatively early night.

Saturday 14th December
Following breakfast we were met by our official city guide, Cyril Dance. Cyril escorted us firstly to see the new ultra modern additions to the city "Das Kunsthouse", a futuristic sausage shaped building and the "Insel In Der Mur" an amphitheater built in the middle of the River Mur, anchored by pilings 12 meters into the ground below and attached to the banks by two walkways. Both structures are due for completion in 2003, during Graz' year as European Cultural Capital. Both are being built with big EEC subsidies.

Once across the river we were escorted through the streets and attractive squares to a cave like entrance that led us into the side of the Schlossberg to lifts that whisked us to the summit in a few seconds. Despite the day being misty we enjoyed the wintery views and the famous clock-face with it's strange hands. Unfortunately the mighty fortress that once dominated the hilltop, was destroyed by Napoleon in 1809. On our way down Cyril pointed out the "Dom in Berg" (Cathedral in mountain) the 500 square meter room gouged out of the rock that is now an exhibition room.

After a short walk we stopped for our gluhwien in a small square, temporally taken over by yet another Advent market. Dominating the square is a Franciscan church which, at a time of need in the 18c, constructed shops attached to the building, for rental income. The shops are still there today as originally intended and the church is still Franciscan.

Our tour continued and we were soon admiring the Ice Crib in the Landhaushof. Forty-two tons of ice carved by Austrian Artist Gert Hoedl and his team into a beautiful work of art. This was the second set of carvings this Advent, the first melted a few days earlier. Into the main shopping street, the Hofgasse, and along an alley into the "Bermuda Triangle" (as Cyril described it), a labyrinth of streets, squares and courtyards and buildings in the Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque styles. Then to the "Glockenspielplatz" and the famous clock where at 11am, 3 and 6pm a window opens to reveal a wooden couple dressed in traditional costume who turn to the chimes of the bell - as they have for almost 100 years.

And so to the "Grazer Dom" - the Cathedral church of St Aegidius, once the Court Church when Emperor Ferdinand lll ruled from Graz and lived in the adjoining castle. Built in the Gothic style it has a beautiful interior of Baroque fittings and is illuminated with two rows of crystal chandeliers. During breaks in the the organ practice we learned some of its history and Cyril pointed out the Emperor's glazed balcony high on the wall overlooking the high altar.

Our tour almost over, we left the Cathedral and crossed the road to the "Burg" the seat of the provincial Styrian government to see one of Graz' hidden treasures, the double winding staircase that dates back to 1499, a marvel of medieval stonework. The staircases start at ground level, cross over at the first landing and from there upwards appear to be unsupported - for 500+ years!

A few minutes later Cyril was saying good-bye outside the "Hofbakerei". This family run bakers and confectioners shop, with its beautiful facade, has been making and selling typical Styrian specialties since 1569, some of us were tempted inside.

Now in need of sustenance, we split into small groups to seek out some Austrian hospitality - the better for the walk and education. There was time for shopping and the odd mug of gluhwien before returning to base to prepare for the evening.

This evening we all enjoyed dinner together, at the "famous" Landhaus-Keller on the Schmiedgasse. This well run and presented restaurant with several public dining rooms and private salons has been serving its guests since 1596. The fare was typically Styrian as were the excellent wines. We were made very welcome by the owner Herr Gunter Gruber and his staff. The only distractions this evening were the skating exhibition by Pam Smith on our way back - fortunately no bones broken, just a few bruises.

Sunday 15th December
Shortly after breakfast we made our way back through the old town en route to the "Grazer Dom" for Holy Mass at 10am. The only skater this morning was John Blake who skillfully maneuvered his sylph like form between several large concrete obstacles (9.9 points).

Mass was a delight. Not only did we to enjoy the excellent singing of a choir from the Graz University of Music and Acting but much of the Mass was in Latin - which we were all better at than German. The homily, unfortunately, went over our most of our heads!

With Mass over, Hania and Pam raced off, at breakneck speed, to see the wooden figures of the Glockenspiel perform their first dance of the day. We soon caught up with them but had to make do with Hania's excellent demonstration. With time running out we invaded a local coffee house before returning to our hotel for the last time.

Taxis to the airport, a short delay of 20 minutes before takeoff, a comfortable flight and we were soon back in the UK . The coach journey to Winchester was slow due to the heavy pre-Christmas Sunday traffic but we all arrived safely.